Instructions

Boil three quarts of water in a five-quart pot then add pasta and season with salt. Cook until about two minutes before tender then drain, reserving ¾ cup of the cooking water.

Melt two tablespoons butter in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add pepper and cook, swirling pan, about one minute until toasted. Add just ½ cup pasta water to skillet and bring to a simmer. Add remaining tablespoon of butter and pasta. Reduce heat to low and add Grana Padano or Parmesan. Stir and toss with tongs until fully melted.

Remove pan from heat and add Pecorino. Stir and toss until cheese melts and coats the al dente pasta. Add rest of reserved pasta water if sauce seems dry. Transfer pasta to warm bowls and serve.